August 7, 2023// The Arctic is home to numerous remote locations that pose a significant challenge for tourists to access. A lengthy journey by river or small aircraft can demand substantial effort and financial investment, but it is worth every resource spent. The extraordinary atmosphere of a location secluded from urban civilisation, where life follows entirely different rules, offers a unique perspective on oneself and the world. Nelemnoye village is one of such places.
Situated on the scenic bank of the Yasachnaya River, 40 km upstream from its mouth, lies the small village of Nelemnoye, home to the Yukaghirs, a minority group of the North. Currently, the village is home to 230 residents, with Yukaghirs making up 130 of them. Land communication with the ulus center is maintained via the Yasachnaya Rive in summer and through a winter road via Ottur-Kyuel in winter. There is also a stable telephone network. Nelemnoye is situated at the highest and least flood-prone location, surrounded by rivers, lakes and swamps. The village was named after the nelma fish that used to ascend one of the nearby rivers for spawning. After the fish ascended, the river's mouth was blocked, resulting in the capture of several tons of fish. Older adults still recall the bans on loud conversations and games along the shore during the fish migration. Now the village comprises two streets lined with residential houses, a school with its own museum, a kindergarten, a cultural center, a shop, a hospital, a post office, a boiler room and a diesel station.
Typically, one's acquaintance with Nelemny starts at the school, which serves as both the geographical and cultural hub of the village, being the sole Yukaghir secondary school. Besides standard subjects, students learn the Yukaghir language and culture, literature of Northern peoples and history of their homeland. Girls also learn traditional sewing and cooking, while boys are taught the basics of hunting and fishing. The school operates a local history museum and hosts a children's folklore ensemble named Yarkhadana.
The school museum introduces visitors to the Yukaghir calendar, attire, utensils, the Yukaghirs' origin and their early history. Chandals, traditional Yukaghir dwellings, standing in the yards lend a unique charm to the typical look of this northern village. The village's ethnographic center also features a bark chum, labaza (small-raised cabins for food storage) and tripod. The Ethnographic Museum of Yukaghir History and Traditions houses a collection of utensils, hunting and fishing gear, clothing and other artifacts.
The most scenic spot is the river bank adorned with old barns. This place serves as a venue for festivals, contests, games and celebrations. For instance, the Shahadyibe ritual takes place here (in Yukaghir language it means ‘sunrise festival’): in ancient times, Yukaghir clans from all over upper Kolyma would gather to greet the sun. During these festivities, sports competitions were held, matchmaking took place, important news was shared, and dances were organised. A narrow forest strip begins at the shoreline, acting as a unique protective barrier that slows down its erosion, while also serving as a charming park. Another point of interest is a runway that concludes at the shore of what could be either a river or Antoshka Lake.
The official boundary of the village territory is marked by the Krivoy site. This place used to be a summer station for livestock, where a ritual to connect with the earth spirits would took place: feeding the fire and idols, presenting them with gifts, and tying a sacred salama (a cord made from horsehair) while asking for blessings and protection.
Old Nelemnoye was first officially recognised by the Billings expedition members in the late 18th century, known by its Yukaghir name Nungadan-anil, meaning ‘river mouth’. Due to regular floods, the villagers abandoned their homes in the mid-1950s. Near the settlement one can find rich breeding waters where locals annually performed rituals to feed the river spirit in hopes of a bountiful catch. Tourists can still observe a ritual of appealling to the river spirit, which is ‘fed’ for a successful journey.
Near the Old Nelemnoye village one can find the Vyska Koryaki site, which can also be accessed via the river. Here, one can explore the remnants of a collapsed arangas (sky burial) and the Yukaghir burial traditions.
The name of this region serves as a reminder of the Koryak assaults on Yukaghir tribes during the 17th and 18th centuries. These events are also reflected in local folklore, with numerous Yukaghir legends recounting wars with the Koryaks.
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